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The Outdoor Living Glossary

Every pool, patio, deck, turf, and backyard term you will hear during a project, explained in plain English. From gunite and shotcrete to polymeric sand, tanning ledges, and frost depth, so you can talk to any contractor with confidence.

148 terms across 9 categories

Pool Types & Shapes

Attached (Spillover) Spa: A spa built into or beside the pool that shares its plumbing and equipment and overflows into the main pool, creating a water feature. It is more integrated and visually seamless than a separate portable hot tub.
Beach Entryalso called: Zero entry / walk-in entry: A pool that slopes gradually from the deck down into the water like a natural beach, with no step at the entry point. It offers easy, wadeable access for small children, older adults, and pets.
Cocktail Poolalso called: Spool (when spa-heated): A small pool, often around 10 to 16 feet long, meant for relaxing, socializing, and cooling off rather than serious swimming. It often includes bench seating and fits tight urban or sloped lots; when it adds a heated spa function it overlaps with a spool.
Fiberglass Pool: A pool built from a one-piece molded fiberglass shell that is manufactured off-site and lowered into the excavated hole, usually by crane. Installation is relatively fast and the smooth gel-coat surface resists algae, but the size and shape are limited to the manufacturer's available molds.
Freeform Pool: A pool with curving, irregular, organic shapes rather than straight lines, designed to look natural and blend into the landscape. The flexibility of gunite construction makes nearly any freeform outline possible.
Geometric Pool: A pool built with straight lines and defined angles, such as rectangles, squares, or L-shapes, for a clean, modern look. The crisp lines pair well with contemporary homes and structured hardscape.
Gunite Poolalso called: Shotcrete pool (gunite is the dry-mix form of shotcrete): A fully custom in-ground pool formed by spraying a dry mix of sand and cement (gunite) over a steel rebar frame, then finishing it with plaster, aggregate, or tile. It can be built in almost any size, shape, or depth, which makes it the common choice for high-end custom designs.
Infinity Edgealso called: Vanishing edge / negative edge: A design where water spills over one or more edges into a hidden catch basin, creating the illusion that the pool merges with the horizon or a distant view. It works best on lots with a downward slope or a scenic drop-off, which East Tennessee's hilly terrain often provides.
Lap Pool: A long, narrow pool (often 40 feet or more) designed for swimming back-and-forth laps for exercise. The slim shape fits narrow side yards but needs a long, relatively flat run of land.
Perimeter-Overflow Poolalso called: Knife-edge / wet-edge / 360 overflow: A pool where water spills evenly over all sides into a surrounding slot or trough, producing a mirror-flat, reflecting-pool look. It is one of the most complex and costly designs because it requires very precise leveling plus a hidden catch basin and pumps.
Plunge Pool: A small, often deeper pool meant for cooling off, soaking, or light exercise rather than swimming laps, usually under about 20 feet long. Its compact footprint suits small or sloped East Tennessee lots and keeps heating and chemical costs lower than a full-size pool.
Spa / Hot Tub: A small heated vessel with jets for soaking and hydrotherapy, either built into a pool or installed as a standalone unit. A built-in (attached) gunite spa shares the pool's equipment and can spill over into the pool for visual effect.
Spoolalso called: Spa-pool / cocktail spool: A hybrid that combines a small pool and a spa in one structure, large enough to lounge or move around in yet small enough to heat efficiently like a hot tub. It is popular for compact yards where a full-size pool will not fit.
Swim Spa: A compact, self-contained unit that generates a continuous current so a swimmer can swim in place, combining exercise swimming with spa-style soaking. It is a smaller-footprint alternative to a full lap pool and can often be used year-round.
Tanning Ledgealso called: Sun shelf / Baja shelf: A shallow shelf, usually about 6 to 12 inches deep, built into the pool for lounging, sunbathing, or placing chairs partly in the water. It is a popular spot for in-water lounge furniture and for young children to play.
Vinyl-Liner Pool: An in-ground pool with steel or polymer wall panels and a floor base, lined with a flexible vinyl membrane that holds the water. It usually has the lowest upfront cost of the main pool types, but the liner typically needs replacement every 7 to 12 years.

Pool Construction & Finishes

Aggregate: The mineral material, such as pebbles, quartz, or glass beads, mixed into an interior finish. An 'exposed aggregate' finish is washed or polished so the stones show at the surface for texture and color.
Bond Beam: The thickened, reinforced top section of the pool's structural wall that ties the shell together and supports the coping. It forms the structural ring around the top perimeter of the pool.
Cantilever Edgealso called: cantilever coping: A coping detail where the concrete deck is poured to extend slightly out over the pool edge, with no separate coping stone. It creates a clean, continuous look from deck to waterline.
Coping: The capping material that covers the top edge of the pool wall where it meets the deck, made of poured concrete, natural stone, or pavers. It gives a finished edge to grip, caps the structural wall, and is usually sloped to direct splash-out water away from the shell.
Deck Drainalso called: channel drain, strip drain: A channel or grated drain set into the pool deck to carry rainwater and splash-out away from the pool and the house foundation. Good deck drainage matters on East Tennessee's clay soils, which hold water and can cause settling or erosion if runoff is not controlled.
Expansion Joint: A flexible gap, typically filled with sealant or foam, placed between the pool coping and the surrounding deck. It lets the deck and pool shell move independently during freeze-thaw cycles and ground shifting so neither cracks the other, which matters in East Tennessee's freeze-thaw winters.
Gunite: A concrete pool shell made by spraying a dry mix of cement and sand through a hose, with water added at the nozzle as it hits a steel rebar framework. It is a common way to build in-ground concrete pools because the operator can control the water and consistency as it is applied.
Hydrostatic Relief Valvealso called: hydrostatic pressure relief valve: A valve in the pool floor that lets high groundwater pressure beneath a drained pool push up into the shell rather than cracking it or floating it out of the ground. It matters in East Tennessee's wet clay soils and karst areas, where groundwater can build up under an empty pool.
Pebble Finish: An interior pool finish made of small natural pebbles mixed into cement, giving a textured, natural look. It generally lasts longer than plain plaster but feels rougher underfoot.
Plasteralso called: marcite, white coat: A traditional waterproof interior finish, usually a white cement-and-marble-dust mix troweled over the concrete shell as the watertight surface. It is the lowest-cost finish and typically lasts about 7 to 15 years before it needs to be replastered.
Quartz Finish: A plaster-based interior finish blended with crushed quartz for added durability, stain resistance, and color. It is a mid-range option, smoother than pebble and typically longer-lasting than standard plaster.
Rebar / Steelalso called: reinforcing steel: The grid of steel reinforcing bars tied together inside the pool excavation before the concrete is sprayed. It gives the gunite or shotcrete shell its tensile strength and structural integrity.
Shotcretealso called: wet-mix shotcrete: A sprayed-concrete pool shell over rebar, like gunite, but using a wet mix in which cement, sand, and water are combined before being pumped to the nozzle. Both methods produce a structural concrete shell; the difference is whether the water is added before pumping (shotcrete) or at the nozzle (gunite).
Skimmer: An opening built into the pool wall at the waterline that draws surface water into the filtration system, pulling in leaves and debris before they sink. Its basket catches debris and protects the pump.
Step Markers (Trim Tile): Contrasting tiles set on step edges, benches, and depth changes to make them visible underwater for safety. They are usually installed at the same time as the waterline tile.
Waterline Tile: A band of tile installed around the pool's interior at the waterline, between the finish and the coping. It resists the calcium and oily scum line that collects at the water's surface and is easier to clean than plaster.

Pool Equipment & Systems

Automatic Pool Coveralso called: Auto cover: A motorized cover that slides over the pool surface at the push of a button, providing a safety barrier and reducing heat loss, evaporation, and debris. By limiting heat and water loss it can cut heating and chemical costs while adding protection over the water when closed.
Automation / App Controlalso called: Pool automation system: A control system that runs the pump, heater, lights, and water features from a wall panel or smartphone app, often on automatic schedules. It adds convenience and can save energy by running equipment only when it's needed.
Cartridge Filter: A filter that traps dirt in a pleated, paper-like cartridge that you periodically pull out and hose off instead of backwashing. It captures fine particles well and wastes no water on backwashing, but the cartridges need regular cleaning and eventual replacement.
Chemical Feederalso called: Chlorinator / chemical dispenser: A device plumbed into the equipment that slowly and automatically releases sanitizer (usually chlorine tablets) into the circulating water. It keeps chemical levels steadier between manual additions and reduces hands-on dosing.
DE Filteralso called: Diatomaceous earth filter: A filter that coats internal grids with diatomaceous earth, a fine powder made from fossilized single-celled algae called diatoms, to strain out very small particles and produce the clearest water of the common filter types. It is the most maintenance-intensive option, needing periodic backwashing followed by recharging with fresh DE powder.
Gas Heateralso called: Gas pool heater: A heater that burns natural gas or propane to warm pool water quickly, even in cold weather. It heats faster than a heat pump but costs more to run depending on fuel prices, making it a good fit for spas or pools used occasionally rather than every day.
Heat Pumpalso called: Pool heat pump: An electric heater that warms the pool by pulling heat from the surrounding air and moving it into the water rather than burning fuel. It is very efficient to run but heats slowly and works less effectively as the outside air gets cold, which matters for extending the swim season in East Tennessee's cooler spring and fall.
LED Pool Light: An underwater pool light that uses LED technology, often able to change colors and sync with an automation system. LEDs use much less electricity and last far longer than the older incandescent bulbs they replaced.
Main Drain: A drain (or pair of drains) at the deepest part of the pool floor that draws water from the bottom up to the filter, working together with the surface skimmers. By federal law it must use an anti-entrapment cover (under the Virginia Graeme Baker Pool and Spa Safety Act) so suction cannot trap a swimmer.
Pool Pump: The motorized device that circulates pool water, pulling it from the skimmers and main drain, pushing it through the filter and heater, and returning it to the pool. It is the heart of the circulation system; without it the water quickly turns cloudy and unsafe.
Salt Chlorinatoralso called: Saltwater system / salt cell: A system that uses an electrically charged cell to generate chlorine from salt dissolved in the pool water, so you don't have to add chlorine by hand. The water is only lightly salty (far less than seawater) and is still chlorinated; the cell is a wear part that needs occasional cleaning and replacement every several years.
Sand Filter: A filter that pushes pool water through a bed of specially graded sand, which catches debris as the water passes through. It is cleaned by backwashing (reversing the flow to flush trapped dirt to waste), which is simple but uses water and filters less finely than a cartridge or DE filter.
Sanitizer: The chemical that kills bacteria, algae, and other contaminants to keep pool water safe and clear, most commonly chlorine (added directly or generated by a salt system). Keeping the right sanitizer level is the most important part of routine water care, and warm, humid East-Tennessee summers can increase how much sanitizer the pool uses.
Sheer Descentalso called: Sheet waterfall feature: A water feature that produces a smooth, flat sheet of water falling from a wall or raised edge into the pool. It is valued mainly for its clean modern look and soothing sound, though the moving water also adds a little surface circulation and aeration.
Skimmer: An opening at the waterline that pulls floating debris like leaves and bugs into a basket before the water reaches the filter. It captures surface debris before it sinks, and its basket is the part you empty most often during normal use.
Variable-Speed Pumpalso called: VS pump: A pool pump whose motor can run at several speeds instead of one fixed speed, so it can circulate water slowly and efficiently for everyday filtering and ramp up only when needed. Running mostly at low speed uses far less electricity than an old single-speed pump, and U.S. Department of Energy rules now effectively require variable-speed motors on most residential pool pumps.

Pavers & Hardscape

Banding / Border: A defined edge made from a contrasting color, size, or pattern of paver that outlines the perimeter of a paved area. Beyond looks, a border helps contain the interior field pavers and gives the installation a clean, intentional boundary.
Base / Sub-base: The layers of compacted crushed stone (and sometimes a finer setting layer) built beneath pavers to support the load and provide drainage. A properly built base is the single most important factor in preventing settling, heaving, and unevenness over time.
Compaction: Mechanically tamping each layer of base material (and the finished pavers) with a plate compactor to remove air gaps and create a dense, stable surface. Compacting in thin lifts rather than all at once is what prevents future settling.
Edge Restraintalso called: Paver edging: A rigid border (typically plastic, metal, or concrete) staked or anchored around the perimeter of a paved area to hold the outer pavers in place. Without it, pavers tend to drift, spread, and let joints open up under traffic and over freeze-thaw seasons.
Efflorescence: A whitish, hazy film that can appear on new concrete pavers as natural salts within the material are drawn to the surface by moisture. It is harmless and usually fades over time or can be removed with a cleaner made for the purpose.
Geotextile Fabricalso called: Separation fabric: A woven or non-woven fabric placed between the soil and the stone base to keep the two from mixing and stop soft soil from pumping up into the base. It is especially helpful over the soft clay soils common in East Tennessee, where it helps keep the base stable.
Joint Sand: The sand swept into the gaps between pavers after installation to help lock them together and transfer load between units. It can be standard sand or polymeric sand, and it may need topping up over time as it gradually washes or wears away.
Paver: A precast concrete or natural stone unit laid in a pattern to create patios, walkways, and driveways. Pavers sit on a prepared base and are typically set without mortar, so individual units can be lifted and replaced if they crack or settle.
Permeable Pavers: Pavers installed with open joints and a special open-graded stone base that lets rainwater drain straight through into the ground instead of running off. They help manage stormwater and reduce puddling, and can support compliance with drainage or runoff requirements.
Polymeric Sand: A jointing sand mixed with binding additives that is swept into the joints between pavers and then activated with water to harden. It helps lock pavers together, resist weed growth and insects, and keep joints from washing out.
Porcelain Paver: A dense, manufactured tile-like paver fired at high temperature, making it very hard, low-absorption, and resistant to stains, fading, and freeze-thaw damage. Its very low water absorption suits East Tennessee's freeze-thaw cycles, though it requires precise installation.
Running Bond / Herringbone (Laying Pattern): Common ways pavers are arranged: running bond staggers each row like brickwork, while herringbone interlocks units at angles for greater strength. Herringbone is often recommended for driveways because its interlock best resists shifting under vehicle weight.
Screed: The thin, leveled layer of bedding sand or fine stone that pavers are set on, and also the act of striking that layer flat with a straightedge before laying. A careful screed gives a smooth, even surface and consistent paver height.
Sealer: A liquid coating applied to pavers or stone to help repel water and stains, slow fading, and stabilize joint sand. Sealers are optional and must be reapplied periodically; some add a wet or glossy look while others are meant to be nearly invisible.
Soldier Course / Sailor Course: A row of pavers set along an edge as a border, named for their orientation: soldiers stand upright (commonly perpendicular to the edge), while sailors lie flat with their long sides running along the edge. Both frame a patio or driveway and give it a finished look.
Travertine: A natural stone (a form of limestone) valued for its earth tones and surface that stays relatively cool underfoot, which makes it popular around pools. Because it is porous and can be etched by acids, it usually needs sealing and is best protected from de-icing salts in winter.

Retaining Walls & Site Work

Batter / Setbackalso called: wall lean: The slight backward lean of a retaining wall, produced as each block course steps back from the one below so the wall tilts into the slope it holds. This built-in lean improves stability compared with a perfectly vertical wall.
Clay Shrink-Swellalso called: expansive soil: The tendency of clay-rich soil to swell when it absorbs water and shrink as it dries, repeatedly pressing on and moving under walls, slabs, and footings. East Tennessee's clay soils make this a real consideration in foundation and retaining-wall design.
Compactionalso called: soil compaction: Mechanically packing soil or gravel in thin layers (lifts) to remove air pockets and create a firm, stable base for walls, slabs, and pavements. Poor compaction is a common cause of later settling, cracking, and uneven surfaces.
Erosion Control: Measures used during and after construction to keep soil from washing away in rain and runoff, such as silt fence, mulch, erosion-control matting, and quickly re-establishing ground cover. It protects the new landscape as well as neighboring properties and waterways.
French Drain: A gravel-filled trench with a perforated pipe that collects water from the surrounding soil and carries it away to a lower outlet. It is commonly used to keep water from pooling behind retaining walls or saturating the ground around a pool or patio.
Frost Depth / Frost Line: The depth to which the ground freezes in winter; footings for permanent structures are placed below it so freezing soil can't lift them. In the Knoxville / East Tennessee area the frost line is shallow (about 12 inches), but footings still must reach below it to avoid frost heave.
Frost Heave: The upward or uneven lifting of soil, and anything resting on it, when water in the ground freezes and expands. It can crack slabs and tilt footings, which is why structural foundations are set below the local frost line.
Geogridalso called: soil reinforcement grid: A strong plastic mesh laid in horizontal layers that extend back into the soil behind a retaining wall, tying the wall and the earth behind it together into one reinforced mass. It is typically required once a wall exceeds roughly 3 to 4 feet in height, or sooner if there are slopes, water, or heavy loads above.
Geotextile Fabricalso called: filter fabric: A permeable fabric placed between soil and gravel that lets water pass through while keeping fine soil from washing into and clogging the drainage stone. It helps wall drainage, French drains, and gravel bases keep working over the long term (this is filter fabric, not weed-barrier landscape fabric).
Gradingalso called: site grading: Shaping the ground to set its levels and slopes, including pitching the soil so surface water flows away from the house, pool, and walls. Proper grading is the first line of defense against drainage and erosion problems.
Gravel Backfillalso called: drainage aggregate: Clean crushed stone placed directly behind a retaining wall in place of soil, creating a free-draining zone that channels water down to the drain. In East Tennessee's clay-heavy soils this drainage layer matters because clay holds water and pushes hard against walls.
Karst / Sinkhole: Karst is terrain where soluble bedrock such as limestone has been dissolved by groundwater, creating underground voids that can collapse into surface sinkholes. Much of the Knoxville / East Tennessee region is karst, so evaluating a site for voids or sinkhole risk is important before building walls, pools, or heavy structures.
Leveling Pad / Wall Basealso called: wall footing: The compacted, level base a retaining wall is built on, usually crushed gravel (sometimes concrete), which spreads the wall's load and gives it a stable foundation. A properly prepared, compacted base is what keeps the wall from settling or shifting over time.
Segmental Retaining Wall (SRW)also called: block retaining wall: A retaining wall built from interlocking precast concrete blocks that stack dry (no mortar) and hold back soil through their weight, backward setback, and the backfill behind them, often reinforced with geogrid. It is the most common engineered wall type for residential pool and yard projects.
Soil Bearing Capacity: How much weight the soil under a structure can safely carry before it settles or fails. Walls, pools, and footings must be matched to the actual bearing capacity of the site's soil, which can vary widely across a single property.
Swalealso called: drainage swale: A shallow, gently sloped channel shaped into the landscape to collect surface water and guide it away from structures toward a safe outlet. It manages runoff using the lay of the land rather than buried pipe.
Wall Drainage / Weep Holes: A gravel-and-pipe drainage path behind a retaining wall (or openings in a solid wall) that lets trapped water escape instead of building up. Relieving this water pressure is critical, since water pressure behind a wall is a leading cause of wall failure.

Decks & Railings

Balusteralso called: spindle / picket: One of the vertical spindles or pickets that fill the space between railing posts to keep people from falling through. Code requires the gaps to be small enough that a 4-inch sphere cannot pass through.
Beamalso called: girder: A large horizontal support, built up from multiple boards or a single timber, that the joists rest on. Beams carry the joist loads down to the posts and footings.
Cable railing: A railing that uses thin horizontal stainless steel cables under tension between posts instead of vertical balusters, preserving views and giving a modern look. The cables must stay tight, since slack ones can let the gap exceed the 4-inch code limit.
Composite deckingalso called: wood-plastic composite (WPC): Deck boards made from a blend of wood fibers and recycled plastic that resist rot and insects and need no staining or sealing. They cost more than wood up front and can get hot underfoot in direct sun.
Fascia: The trim board installed along the outer edge of the deck framing to cover the rim joist and exposed board ends for a finished appearance. It is cosmetic and not a structural support.
Flashing: A metal or membrane barrier installed where the deck meets the house, especially over the ledger board, to direct water away from the house framing. Missing or improper flashing lets water rot the framing and is a common cause of deck failure.
Footingalso called: pier: The concrete base below each support post that spreads the deck's load into the ground. For a deck attached to the house, East Tennessee code generally requires footings to extend below the frost line (about 12 inches in the Knoxville area) so freeze-thaw movement doesn't heave the deck; in karst areas the soil may need extra evaluation.
Joist: One of the horizontal framing members, commonly spaced 12 or 16 inches apart, that the deck boards are fastened to. Joists carry the surface load and transfer it to the beams and posts.
Ledger board: The board that fastens the deck to the house framing and supports the inner edge of the deck. It must be lag-bolted (not just nailed) and flashed correctly, because a poorly attached or unflashed ledger is a leading cause of deck collapse and water damage to the house.
Picture-frame border: A border of deck boards run around the perimeter, perpendicular to the main field boards, that hides the cut board ends for a 'framed' look. It usually requires extra blocking or a doubled joist beneath the seam to support the border boards.
Post: A vertical member, typically a treated 6x6, that carries the beam load down to the footing. Posts are tied to the footing and beam with metal hardware to resist uplift and lateral movement.
PVC / capped decking: Decking that is either solid PVC (no wood fibers) or a composite board wrapped in a hard plastic 'cap' that shields the core from moisture, stains, and fading. Capped and PVC boards generally resist mold and weathering better than uncapped composite, which helps in East Tennessee's humid summers.
Riser: The vertical face of each stair step, between one tread and the next. Risers can be left open or closed, and code limits their height and how much the height may vary from step to step.
Span: The distance a framing or decking member can safely cover between its supports, such as a joist's span between beams or a deck board's span between joists. Allowable spans depend on the material, size, and spacing and are set by code to keep the deck from sagging or feeling bouncy.
Tread: The horizontal surface of a stair step that you walk on. Code sets a minimum tread depth and limits the variation between steps so the stairs are safe and even.
Under-deck drainage: A system of panels or troughs installed below an elevated deck's joists to catch rainwater and channel it away, creating a dry, usable space underneath. It is popular for a covered patio or storage below a second-story deck.

Artificial Turf & Putting Greens

Backing (Primary & Secondary): The fabric layers the turf fibers are stitched into: the primary backing holds the yarn, and the secondary backing (usually a urethane or latex coat) locks it in place and adds stability. Quality backing resists stretching and keeps fibers from pulling out, and it is perforated to let water drain through.
Blade Shapealso called: Yarn shape / blade profile: The cross-sectional profile of each turf fiber (such as C-shape, S-shape, W-shape, or diamond), engineered to affect resilience and how the blade reflects light. The shape influences how upright the turf stands, how well it resists matting, and how natural it looks.
Cup / Hole: The plastic or metal cylinder set into the base to hold the flag and catch the ball, using the same regulation 4.25-inch diameter as real greens. Installers usually set several cup locations so the hole can be moved to vary play.
Cut Pile vs. Loop Pile: Cut pile turf has the yarn loops sheared so the blades stand as individual fibers, the usual choice for lawns; loop or texturized turf keeps the yarn curled or looped for a firmer, smoother surface often used on putting greens. The construction affects feel, durability, and how a ball rolls.
Drainage Basealso called: Sub-base: The layer of compacted crushed stone (typically angular gravel topped with a finer stone dust or screenings) built under the turf so rainwater drains down and away instead of pooling. A well-built, well-draining base matters in East Tennessee's rainy, humid climate to prevent standing water and odor.
Face Weight: The weight of the turf yarn (fibers) alone, measured in ounces per square yard, not counting the backing. A higher face weight generally means more fiber and a denser surface, though it is only one factor in overall quality.
Fringe / Collaralso called: Apron: A border of longer, lawn-style turf installed around a putting green to frame it and mimic the rough or apron around a real green. The taller fringe contrasts with the short putting surface.
Gauge: The spacing between the rows of stitched fibers across the width of the turf, expressed as a fraction of an inch (e.g., 3/8 inch). A tighter gauge means rows are closer together, contributing to a denser surface.
Heat Retentionalso called: Heat buildup: Synthetic turf has no living surface to cool itself, so it absorbs sunlight and can get noticeably hotter than natural grass on sunny days. Lighter-colored fibers, certain infills, watering, and shade reduce the effect, which is worth considering for hot East-Tennessee summers.
Infillalso called: Sand infill: Granular material (silica sand, coated sand, or rubber crumb) brushed down between the turf blades to weigh the turf flat, hold the fibers upright, and protect the backing. On putting greens, the amount and type of sand infill also helps tune how fast a ball rolls.
Nailer Board: A wood or composite board anchored at the edge of an installation (often where turf meets hardscape or another surface) that gives installers solid material to fasten the turf edge to. It keeps perimeter seams secure where there is no soil to hold nails or staples.
Pile Height: The length of the grass blades measured from the backing to the tip, usually in inches. Landscape lawn turf is often longer for a soft look, while putting-green turf is kept very short so a ball rolls true.
Seam: The joint where two pieces of turf are joined, typically with seaming tape and adhesive (sometimes stitched) so the fibers blend and the line is hidden. Poorly made seams can lift, peel, or show as a visible stripe over time.
Stimp / Green Speedalso called: Stimpmeter reading: A measure of how fast a ball rolls across a putting surface, traditionally read with a device called a stimpmeter. On synthetic greens the speed is influenced by the turf's pile height and the amount of sand infill, so a green can be set slower or faster.
Stitch Rate: The number of stitches of yarn tufted into the backing per unit of length (along the roll), which together with gauge determines how dense the turf is. A higher stitch rate packs fibers closer together for a fuller, more wear-resistant surface.
Weed Barrier / Geotextile Fabricalso called: Landscape fabric: A permeable landscape fabric laid between the soil and the stone base to slow weeds and grass from growing up through the turf while still letting water drain. It helps keep the surface clean and stable, especially over native soil.

Structures & Shade

Aluminum Patio Coveralso called: Metal patio cover: A patio roof or shade structure built from aluminum framing, valued for being rust-resistant, low-maintenance, and lighter than wood. East Tennessee's humidity makes rot- and rust-resistant aluminum a popular alternative to wood for long-term durability.
Attached vs Freestandingalso called: House-mounted vs self-supporting: An attached structure ties into the house with a ledger board for support on one side, while a freestanding structure stands on its own posts independent of the home. Attached covers can save on materials but require careful, watertight flashing where they meet the house.
Beam: A horizontal structural member that spans between posts and carries the load of the rafters or roof above. Beam size is determined by how far it must span and how much weight it supports.
Cantilever: A beam or roof section that extends past its last support, with no post beneath the overhanging end. Cantilevers create open, post-free space (as on a freestanding shade arm or offset umbrella) but must be properly sized so the overhang doesn't sag or tip.
Footingalso called: Pier / concrete footing: The concrete base poured below ground that anchors a post and spreads the structure's weight onto stable soil. In East Tennessee, footings are typically poured below the local frost line so freeze-thaw cycles don't heave or shift the structure.
Frost Depth (Frost Line)also called: Frost line: The depth to which ground typically freezes in winter; footings must extend below it so seasonal freezing doesn't lift and crack the structure. In the Knoxville and East Tennessee area this depth is shallow (commonly around a foot) but still dictates how deep post footings are poured.
Knee Brace: A short diagonal brace connecting a post to a beam to stiffen the joint and resist racking or swaying. Knee braces add lateral stability and are common on pergolas and pavilions, while also serving as a visible design detail.
Ledger Boardalso called: Ledger: A horizontal board bolted to the house wall that supports one side of an attached patio cover, pergola, or roof. It must be securely fastened into the home's framing and properly flashed to keep water from getting behind it.
Louvered (Adjustable) Roofalso called: Adjustable louver roof: A roof made of pivoting slats (louvers), usually aluminum, that tilt open for sun and breeze or close to form a water-shedding surface that drains through built-in gutters in the frame. Many are motorized and can close automatically when a rain sensor is triggered.
Motorized Coveralso called: Powered retractable cover: A powered retractable canopy, louvered roof, or screen operated by remote, switch, or app to extend, retract, open, or close the shade. Some include rain or wind sensors that close or retract the cover automatically to protect it.
Pavilionalso called: Covered outdoor structure: A freestanding outdoor structure with a solid, pitched roof that provides full shade and rain protection, often built over a patio, outdoor kitchen, or seating area. Its closed roof makes the space usable in most weather, unlike a pergola.
Pergolaalso called: Open-roof shade structure: An open-roof structure with rafters or slats overhead that filter sunlight rather than fully block it, providing partial shade and a frame for climbing plants. It does not keep out rain unless fitted with a separate cover, canopy, or adjustable louvered roof.
Pergola vs Pavilionalso called: Open vs solid roof: A pergola has an open, slatted roof that filters sun but lets rain through, while a pavilion has a solid pitched roof that fully blocks sun and rain. The choice comes down to whether you want dappled light and airflow or a weatherproof, all-season covered space.
Post: A vertical support column that carries the weight of a roof or shade structure down to the ground or footing. Material and size are chosen based on how much load the structure carries and the distance it spans between supports.
Post Anchor (Base / Standoff)also called: Post base / standoff base: A metal bracket that fastens a post to a footing or slab, often raising the wood slightly off the concrete so water drains away. A standoff base keeps the post end from sitting in moisture, reducing rot in a humid climate.
Rafter: A sloped or horizontal framing member that rests on the beams and forms the structure's roof or open-slat top, carrying the roof covering or louvers. On a pergola the rafters create the slatted, sun-filtering pattern overhead.
Span: The unsupported distance a beam or rafter bridges between two posts or supports. Longer spans require larger or stronger members, so span directly affects post spacing, material size, and cost.

Fire & Water Features

BTU Rating: A measure of a gas fire feature's heat output, given in British Thermal Units per hour, that reflects how warm and how large the flame will be. Higher-BTU burners put out more heat but use more fuel, so the rating helps match a feature to the space and gas supply.
Bubbleralso called: Gusher: A low jet installed in a shallow tanning ledge or sun shelf that pushes a gentle column of water upward to create a small fountain-like bubble at the surface. Bubblers add movement and sound to the shallow lounging area of a pool.
Deck Jet: A nozzle set into the pool deck or coping that arcs a stream of water over the pool surface, often installed in a row for a fountain effect. Deck jets produce a lively, splashing arc and are simpler and less costly than laminar jets.
Fire Bowl: A round, bowl-shaped vessel made of materials such as cast concrete, copper, or steel that holds a gas or wood flame as a sculptural feature. Fire bowls are often placed in pairs to flank steps, a pool, or an entry.
Fire Glass: Tempered, tumbled glass pieces that cover a gas burner in a fire pit, table, or bowl, reflecting the flame for a clean, modern look. It withstands the heat without melting or discoloring and is an alternative to lava rock or ceramic logs.
Fire Pit: A basin, either built-in or portable, that holds an open fire as a backyard gathering spot, usually surrounded by seating. It can burn firewood or run on natural gas or propane.
Fire Table: A patio table with a gas burner built into the center, typically topped with fire glass or lava rock, that produces a low flame while leaving usable table surface around it. It runs on natural gas or propane.
Gas vs. Wood-Burning: The choice between fueling a fire feature with gas (natural gas or propane) or with split firewood. Gas gives instant on-off control with no smoke or ash, while wood provides a traditional crackle, aroma, and higher heat but requires fuel storage, tending, ash cleanup, and often stricter clearance or permit rules.
Grotto: A cave-like rock structure built over or beside a pool, often with a waterfall in front and hidden seating or a spa tucked behind the falling water. Grottos are built from natural or artificial rock to create a secluded, resort-style retreat.
Laminar Jet: An engineered jet that shoots a smooth, glass-like arc of water with no splash or turbulence, often lit from within by LED. It is distinct from a standard deck jet, costing more and requiring cleaner water and more precise installation.
Natural Gas vs. Propane: The two gas-fuel options for a fire feature: natural gas is piped from a utility line for unlimited burn time but requires running a permanent gas line, while propane is stored in refillable tanks that offer placement flexibility but must be monitored and replaced.
Outdoor Fireplace: A masonry or prefabricated structure with a firebox, chimney, and hearth that burns wood or gas and vents smoke upward. Unlike a fire pit, it provides a tall focal point and directs heat toward seating in front of it.
Pondless Waterfall: A recirculating waterfall or stream where the water disappears into a gravel-filled basin and hidden reservoir instead of an open pond. With no standing pool of water, it lowers drowning risk, limits mosquito breeding, and simplifies maintenance, making it a popular stand-alone feature.
Rain Curtain: A feature in which many small streams fall straight down from an overhead bar, beam, or pergola, forming a curtain of water that resembles rain. It is used for visual and acoustic effect and is sometimes set so swimmers can pass through it.
Scupper: A spout or trough, often metal, stone, or concrete, set into a wall to direct a stream or sheet of water out and down into a pool or basin below. Scuppers are commonly built into raised walls or spa edges for visual interest and water sound.
Sheer Descentalso called: Sheer Waterfall: A water feature that releases a smooth, wide sheet of water from a thin slot, usually off a raised wall or spa edge, forming a glassy waterfall curtain. It is valued for its clean look and soothing sound; "Sheer Descent" is a common product name, and the feature is also called a sheer waterfall.
Spillwayalso called: Spillover: An edge or channel that lets water spill from a higher element, such as a raised spa, down into a lower pool or basin for a continuous waterfall effect. A spillover spa, for example, overflows into the adjacent pool through a spillway.
Winterizing (Fire & Water Features): Preparing fire and water features for cold weather by draining water from lines, pumps, and basins and shutting off or protecting components. In East Tennessee's freeze-thaw winters, draining standing water keeps it from expanding and cracking pipes, pumps, and plumbing.

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